Gentlefolk of the Outer Bailey,
Because many have expressed some confusion to me regarding some of the garments worn in the castle, I present here a discussion of the most common garments and the customs that surround them. I am quite happy to answer additional questions.
Mistress Ermengarde
Royal Seamstress
APRON: A utilitarian garment which ties around the waist. Aprons are worn by servants and craftspeople to protect other clothing from damage. Customarily worn over humble clothing, an apron over a more formal gown or tunic is considered quite inappropriate.
BELT: A strip of flexible material -- customarily made of canvas, leather, or suede -- which is worn snugly about the waist by both women and men. Belts are primarily an item of utility, from which scabbards and pouches may be hung. When fashion so dictates, fine belts are also sometimes worn with tunics or loose gowns to emphasize the waist. White sword belts are customarily reserved for those of knightly rank or higher. (See also GIRDLE.)
BLOUSE: A light, loose-fitting women's garment worn on the upper body, hanging loose about the hips. Most commonly dyed in white or other light colors, and made of thin fabric such as linen or lawn. A blouse is customarily worn beneath a bodice with pants, and is usually considered a relatively informal garment. Simple blouses are widely worn in the Outer Bailey, while Her Majesty's swordbearing female courtiers often wear fancier versions made of finer fabric.
BODICE: A women's tight-fitting sleeveless outer vest, extending halfway up the chest, with lacings in front. Most commonly made of sturdy fabric such as wool or leather, a bodice is traditionally worn over a chemise when worn with a skirt, or over a blouse when worn with pants. It is generally considered a relatively informal garment. Widely worn in the Outer Bailey for everyday occasions, bodices are customarily worn at Her Majesty's Court only by swordbearing women.
BOOTS: Footwear that extends above the ankle, usually made of leather or suede. Short boots are customarily worn throughout the castle with pants or tunics, but are considered quite inappropriate with trunkhose or a codpiece. Tall boots, however, are sometimes worn with trunkhose, attaching to the breeches with slender ties. Tall boots are also sometimes fashionable with doublet and pants.
BREECHES (Trunkhose and Knee-Breeches): A masculine outer garment worn on the lower body, covering each leg separately from the waist down. Pants are the most common type of breeches in the castle, and are therefore listed separately (see below). Less common are trunkhose: short, full breeches reaching about halfway down the thigh. Even less common than trunkhose are knee-breeches, which reach to just below the knee. Both trunkhose and knee-breeches are worn primarily at Court, and are considered very formal. Both are traditionally worn with a fancy jerkin or doublet and hose. Trunkhose are also sometimes worn with tall boots which attach to them with a fine lace. Trunkhose and knee-breeches are customarily considered quite inappropriate as feminine garb.
CAP: Informal headwear worn throughout the Outer Bailey by both genders, in varying styles and fabrics (most commonly wool). Caps are distinguished from hats primarily by having no brim and usually being made of softer material. Caps are worn primarily for warmth, though they may sometimes be fashionable.
CAPE: A sleeveless outer garment which fits closely at the neck and hangs loosely over the shoulders. Capes in the castle are typically hoodless and ankle-length, and are considered more formal than cloaks.
CHEMISE: A women's long-sleeved undergarment, hanging straight and unfitted from the shoulders to the ankles. Sometimes called a "shift." Usually made of light fabric such as linen or gauze. Chemises are worn beneath gowns or skirts, and indeed no woman in feminine attire is properly clothed without a chemise. Chemises of various levels of quality are worn by women of all ranks.
CIRCLET: A ring or band of firm cloth, metal, or jewels which is worn upon a woman's head, primarily to hold the hair or a veil in place. Cloth circlets are often made of twisted or braided fabric. A circlet is usually worn with a gown, and is considered quite formal. Customarily, circlets are worn primarily by female courtiers, though they are also sometimes worn on special occasions by Outer Bailey women.
CLOAK: A sleeveless outer garment which fits closely at the neck and hangs loosely over the shoulders. Cloaks in the castle are typically hooded and knee-length, and are considered less formal than capes. They are widely worn by men and women of all ranks.
CODPIECE: A bagged appendage to the front of close-fitting hose, worn only by men. Sometimes richly ornamented with embroidery or jewels. A codpiece is traditionally worn by daring courtiers -- when it is fashionable -- with warm hose (made of finest wool or velvet) and a doublet.
DOUBLET: A man's close-fitting coat or vest, fastening up the front, usually with a collar. Doublets are traditionally worn by male courtiers with pants, trunkhose and hose, or codpiece and hose. Some are long-sleeved, while others are sleeveless (and worn over a shirt). Long-sleeved doublets are sometimes worn beneath a fancy jerkin or overvest.
GARTER: A cloth band worn around a woman's thigh, more for decoration than for utility. Garters are appropriately worn only with gowns, and are considered quite formal. Though sometimes worn by Outer Bailey folk on special occasions, garters are primarily worn by women of Her Majesty's Court.
GAUNTLETS: Gloves which extend back to mid-forearm, covering and protecting the wrist. Gauntlets are customarily made of stout material such as leather, and are worn primarily by male courtiers of military bent. The throwing down of a gauntlet implies a challenge, and the picking up of a gauntlet implies acceptance of such a challenge. Gauntlets are sometimes given as gifts by Her Majesty's courtiers to express hospitality or gratitude, especially to someone who has championed or seconded them in a duel. (See also GLOVES.)
GIRDLE: A women's belt worn round the waist, often quite loosely, to emphasize the line of the wearer's hips. The girdle is customarily made of twisted or braided fabric or cord, and is worn knotted in the front, with the ends hanging down almost to the hem of the gown. It is also an item of utility, as purses and pouches may be suspended from it. Girdles are customarily worn only with gowns, and can be either formal or informal, depending upon the material from which they are made. Girdles of humble fabric are often worn in the Outer Bailey, while more finely-made girdles of richer materials are worn by women of the Court. Some rare, beautiful girdles are even constructed of fine metals and jewels.
GLOVES: A close-fitting covering for the whole hand, with a separate sheath for each finger. Gloves are most commonly made in sturdy fabrics such as leather and worn by swordspeople or craftspeople to protect the hand, though it is sometimes fashionable at Court to wear decorative gloves made of more luxuriant fabrics. Fine gloves made of white cotton or other fabrics are sometimes given as gifts by courtiers to express hospitality or gratitude. (See also GAUNTLETS and MITTENS.)
GOWN: A women's garment traditionally fitted close to the upper part of the body, with flowing skirts extending to the ankles or floor. Dyed in a wide variety of colors and constructed in a wide variety of fabrics, to varying degrees of elegance and complexity. A gown is customarily worn over a chemise and slippers, often with a decorative girdle. Gowns of various kinds are worn throughout the castle by women of all ranks, for both informal and formal events.
HAT: A head-covering with a more or less horizonal brim all 'round the circumference. In the Outer Bailey, hats are commonly worn by Duelists, but hats are rarely fashionable at Court. Hats should always be removed in the presence of royalty.
HOOD: A covering for the head and neck, made of soft or flexible material. Most cloaks have hoods as part of their construction, but separate hoods are rarely fashionable.
HOSE: A close-fitting article of clothing for the legs and loins, worn almost exclusively at Court. Hose may be constructed of fabrics of varying degrees of elegance and warmth, including fine linen, fine wool, silk, and even velvet. Hose are worn most usually with a doublet (sometimes accompanied by trunkhose), but wearing hose beneath a tunic is also sometimes fashionable. Hose are appropriate garb for men only.
JERKIN or OVERVEST: A collarless, sleeveless, close-fitting, hip-length jacket (or long vest), usually laced in the front. Leather jerkins are usually utilitarian, being worn for warmth or protection, and are customarily worn with pants and a shirt. Fancy jerkins or overvests -- often worn over doublets -- are made of more luxuriant fabrics, and are customarily worn only by men at Her Majesty's Court.
LEGGINGS: A masculine garment for the legs, extending from ankle to above the knee and often made of leather. Leggings are rarely fashionable, but are sometimes worn beneath tunics by male courtiers.
MITTENS: A covering for the hand with no separate division for the individual fingers, but provided with a separate section for the thumb. Mittens are customarily worn on informal occasions throughout the castle for warmth rather than fashion. They are customarily made of thick, warm fabric such as wool or leather. Lambskin mittens are sometimes given as gifts by folk of rank to express hospitality or gratitude. (See also GLOVES.)
OVERDRESS (or Surcote): A sleeveless dress, worn over a gown or fine chemise. Usually made of rich fabric and laced in the back to cinch the bodice. (A similar garment may be worn by men, but is rarely fashionable.) The overdress is a very formal garment, worn primarily by women at Her Majesty's Court.
PANTS: Pants are breeches worn by both men and sword-bearing women, extending from the waist to the ankle. Pants of various qualities are worn throughout the castle by folk of all ranks. Pants worn in the Outer Bailey are made of sturdy fabrics such as homespun, wool, and flannel. Pants worn by courtiers are sometimes made in more decorative fabrics, such as suede or serge. Pants are traditionally worn with tunics, shirts with or without vests or jerkins, doublets, or a blouse and bodice. Appropriate footwear with pants includes both shoes and boots, but slippers are very inappropriate.
ROBE: A long, flowing outer garment, customarily worn by scholars over normal clothing for ceremonial events. Robes are relatively rare and never fashionable, being more an expression of occupation than of fashion.
SCARF: A broad band of cloth -- most commonly wool or flannel -- worn about the neck, shoulders, or head for warmth. Scarves are worn informally outdoors throughout the castle, but they are considered utilitarian and are rarely fashionable.
SHIRT: The basic masculine undergarment worn on the upper body. It is loose and long-sleeved, and usually laces at the chest. Shirts of various levels of quality are worn by men of all ranks. Shirts are most commonly worn with pants and vests or jerkins, or beneath sleeveless doublets. (See also BLOUSES, the feminine equivalent.)
SHOES: A masculine outer covering for the foot, typically having a thick or stiff sole, attached to an upper part made of lighter, more flexible material. Shoes are most commonly made of leather or suede, though courtiers of high rank or favor sometimes wear decorative shoes made of more luxuriant fabrics. Shoes are worn primarily at Her Majesty's Court, and are customarily worn with pants or hose. (See also BOOTS and SLIPPERS.)
SKIRT: A free-hanging women's garment which is snug at the waist, falling in full and often voluminous folds to the ankle or floor. Generally considered a relatively informal garment, a skirt is customarily worn with a chemise, bodice, and slippers. Customarily, skirts are worn widely in the Outer Bailey, but are rarely seen at Court.
SLIPPERS: A light, low-cut women's shoe that is easily slipped onto the foot. Usually made of leather or suede, but often made of more luxuriant and decorative fabrics for courtiers. Slippers are customarily worn only with feminine garb -- skirts and gowns -- and are not appropriate to be worn with pants.
SNOOD: A net or fabric bag worn upon the back of a woman's head to keep the hair in place. Snoods are usually worn only with fine gowns, as they are considered quite formal, and are customarily worn almost exclusively by Her Majesty's courtiers.
TUNIC: A simple slip-on garment worn on the upper body. Usually long-sleeved and knee-length, and sometimes worn belted at the waist. Fancy tunics are sometimes sleeveless to show the sleeves of a fine undertunic worn beneath. Tunics of various levels of quality are worn by men of all ranks. They are sometimes also worn -- trimly belted at the waist -- by sword-bearing women. Tunics are traditionally worn with pants, though it is sometimes fashionable for men to wear them over hose.
VEIL: A women's garment consisting of a piece of thin, light fabric worn over the head without obstructing the face. Veils are customarily worn with circlets to hold them in place, and are considered quite formal. They are customarily worn primarily by women of knightly rank or above.
VEST: A sleeveless men's outer garment, worn with a shirt and pants. Usually constructed of relatively sturdy material, such as wool or leather. Vests are customarily considered relatively informal, and are primarily worn in the Outer Bailey.
For your convenience, I have also extracted here that part of Her Majesty Queen Vivienne's Capitulary (Laws) which pertains to clothing:
If any person, not yet a courtier, shall wear damask, satin, or silk, let them be exposed for no more than 1 day in the stocks, or suffer no more than 5 days imprisonment.
If any person, not of noble blood, shall wear fine fur, cloth of silver, cloth of gold, or velvet, let them be exposed for no more than 3 days in the stocks, or suffer no more than 10 days imprisonment.
If any person shall wear fabric in the color cerulean, then let them suffer no more than 6 lashes and be exposed for no more than 5 days in the stocks, or suffer no more than 14 days imprisonment.
If any person shall improperly wear crowns or coronet to which they are not entitled, they shall suffer no more than 12 lashes and be exposed for no more than 7 days in the stocks, or suffer no more than 30 days imprisonment.
If any persons shall wear a uniform or badge to which they are not entitled [i.e., the Royal Guard], let them be exposed for no more than 2 days in the stocks, or suffer no more than 4 days imprisonment.
[Note: The text on this page was taken entirely from postings in the forums on Skotos's Castle Marrach page.]
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